Kandee's Words of Wisdom

I've been asked to write a post on how to do your makeup for photos. Instead of being longwinded, I have decided to separate my advice into several posts. Since I know I learn better with the help of visual aids, I have decided to introduce my how-tos with a video by celebrity makeup artist Kandee Johnson.



In my last post, I was a little harsh on poor Kandee. Maybe it's guilt or something, but REGARDLESS, I think anyone can benefit from watching Kandee at her finest. This video will help get you started with a basic approach to makeup for photography.

Unimpressed with un-petroleum

Petrolatum and mineral oil are two ingredients you want to try and avoid in all your beauty products, but unfortunately they're in something like one out of every ten or fifteen cosmetic products on the market. Like many consumers, lately I have been trying out more "natural" or "organic" products as a healthy alternative to petroleum-derived products.

I use quotation marks here because there really is no such thing as a natural or organic cosmetic. The words are just marketing terms some companies use--ethically or unethically--on their labels. These terms are not monitored by the FDA like food is because, well, the FDA doesn't regulate cosmetics.

Regardless, petroleum jelly or Vaseline is a staple that you can find in almost every American household and for good reason. Though sticky and occlusive, it is a universal salve often used as a moisturizer or chapped skin. No other balm on the market has successfully usurped Vaseline in this manner. I myself have found myself reaching for it again and again this winter for chapped lips and cracked hands.

I decided to change this habit and found myself in the beauty section of my local Whole Foods where I saw a product that looked like the miracle product I'd been waiting for. Alba un-petroleum Multi-Purpose Jelly. It was around $6 for 3.5 ounces, packaged in a squeezable tube, which is more expensive than Vaseline but relatively cheap compared to other natural skincare products on the market. (Part of the reason petroleum products are so frequently used is because they're so inexpensive.) There were few ingredients: castor oil, coconut oil, beeswax, and Vitamin E. There were no testers available for this product, so I purchased the product blindly.

I hate this product. I never say that. I always try to find some way to make a product useful. But really, I hate this product. And apparently I'm alone in this because sales for un-petroleum are skyrocketing since last year and getting rave reviews. In fact, I could not find one negative review on it. The closest I got was written by a girl who said she didn't really know how she was planning to use it because she has oily skin and doesn't need something this moisturizing.

I still hate this product. It's slimy. It doesn't spread evenly. It won't cling to dry patches and instead runs onto oilier or moist areas that need it. I woke up one morning after using it as a lip balm to find that not only were my lips still chapped (more than before, actually) but the product had seeped into my mouth and covered my gums. the inside of my lips. (That's not normal.) I tried using it as an eye makeup remover, then spent literally twenty-four minutes trying to remove the product, which didn't come off until my shower the next day. I have dry skin that's been clear for years until this product somehow migrated off my lips and onto my face with a mission to seek and destroy. Even on my scaly hands and feet, it sat on my flesh like cling wrap, doing nothing but making everything I touched disgusting. I hate this product. I hate it. I hate it. I hate it.

How this product become so popular? It all started a year ago when celebrity makeup artist Kandee Johnson posted a video about her skincare routine on her YouTube channel. If you haven't already seen it or any of Kandee's video, check it out below:

I love this girl to death, and I'm not alone. Her videos are not only informative, but her enthusiasm for life (and makeup) is absolutely addictive. And I agree with her on almost everything. When I first started watching her videos (recommended to me by a client), I was floored that there was someone else out there who loved the same products I do. (Actually the MyChelle Fruit Enzyme she mentions in the beginning is my daily cleanser. If you're interested in trying it, know that it is a glycolic acid cleanser and will double as an exfoliator.)

I don't want to say Kandee talked me into buying the un-petroleum. I was looking for a product like this anyway. And like I said, this video's a year old, and she's posted a new skincare video since then. But I do know that almost every review I've read of this product cites her as the driving force behind their purchasing decision. Kandee is like an alchemist when it comes to beauty products. Anything she mentions turns to gold.

I hate to say anything negative about Ms. Johnson because I really find her to be the smartest and most talented guru on YouTube. But when I rewatched this video, I realized that we were all buying un-petroleum for the wrong reasons.

Kandee may have beautiful skin, but her reasoning for using un-petroleum doesn't make any sense. There are no products on the market that seal in your moisturizer. (The closest thing I can think of is Clinique Moisture Surge, an aloe-based product for those with an impaired moisture barrier.) If your moisturizer isn't adequately hydrating your skin, suffocating it with occlusive products (natural or synthetic) is crazy talk. Your moisturizer, unless prescription, is a cosmetic and can't (by order of the law) penetrate your skin enough to structurally change it, so you're just piling on layers of oil upon oil onto your skin and clogging your pores in the process. Many experts, like Dr. Hauschka,even believe that using night creams alone--without an added "sealant"--is bad for the skin, which needs to breath and repair itself while you're sleeping. Un-petroleum applied on top of moisturizer will probably end up doing you more harm than good in the long run, even if you are seeing good results now.

Kandee is flat-out wrong when she says natural ingredients can't make you break out. Any imbalance of oil and water in your skin will result in blemishes, and furthermore, coconut oil is a saturated fat. And saturated fats, like lanolin which comes from sheep's fat, is too heavy for most skin types, except the very, very dry. I'm talking exposed to radiation, lizard dry.

Lastly, moisturizer will not repair wrinkles. Wrinkles come from a breakdown of collagen and elastin, not dehydration. Yes, dehydration will make wrinkles more apparent, but oil alone is not an anti-aging ingredient.

If you find that moisturizer alone isn't satisfying your dry skin, then I have a few alternatives to slathering yourself in this junk:

• Get a different moisturizer. The one you're using isn't emollient enough.
• Exfoliate more often. You may have a build up of dead skin that is keeping your moisturizer from doing it's job. There are a lot of great physical and chemical exfoliators on the market. Or you can mix plain old sugar (white or brown) into your cleanser until it has a grainy consistency. Wash your face as usual with the sugar cleanser, then rinse with warm water. Afterward, you can splash your face once with cold water to close pores.
• Use a serum under your moisturizer that contains a humectant like hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is produced naturally by your body, so it works on both oily and dry skins. I suggest Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair, but there are natural products on the market that use this technology as well. In fact, I believe MyChelle Dermaceuticals makes one.
• Try spot treating dry areas with a light oil. Jojoba oil is gentle and noncomedogenic. Many claim that it is the closest oil to our natural sebum, making it the most recognizable to our skins. Drier skins might even want to try shea butter before turning to coconut oil.
• Use a moisturizing mask once a week. For a full facial experience, boil some water with a few drops of the essential oil of your choice and steam for ten minutes before exfoliating with a gentle scrub. Once your pores have been opened and cleansed, you can apply the mask and sit back for ten or fifteen minutes before rubbing in or rinsing off. (Which technique to use will be specified on your product's label.

As I post this, I would like to say that I hope this review is helpful to people. I do not mean any disrespect to Kandee. But as a dissatisfied customer and a product reviewer, I couldn't stifle the urge to voice my dissenting opinion on un-petroleum. Feel free to disagree with me. In fact, I would love to hear anyone's comments on their experience with this product.

Banana Republic to the rescue

I am a big believer in internet shopping. In fact, I never go shopping without checking out the websites of the stores I plan on perusing. Aside from being prepared, it helps me plan what to look for and often has links on what's trendy, what's classic, and what's been featured recently in magazines. In my opinion, this is important info.

Anyway, I was looking at the Banana Republic website the other day and noticed a link I'd never noticed before. They now have a feature on dressing for your body type. Right now it's limited to dresses, but still...WHAT A NOVEL IDEA! Even if you're not a fan of Banana Republic for whatever reason, I urge you all to check out their recommendations on http://bananarepublic.gap.com/ if you've ever asked yourself, "Does this dress make me look fat?" It couldn't hurt!

P.S. While you're at it, check out their online exclusive sales on Pima Cotton. Gotta love markdowns on stylish comfort.

How To Start A Brush Collection

I have an unhealthy obsession with makeup brushes. Yes, I'm a makeup artist, but I'm not kidding when I tell you that everyone I've worked with comments on how many brushes I own.

In my opinion, makeup brushes are the most important component of your makeup kit. (Okay, obviously they're useless if you don't have anything to apply with them, but you know what I mean.) But they can get expensive. And for most women they're not the "fun" part. It's exciting to buy a new shade of lip gloss, but there's not a lot of instant gratification in buying a new brush if you're not a makeup artist.

Regardless, brushes are one of the best investments you can make. If cared for properly, they will last a lifetime. And it is literally impossible to get a polished look in photos without them. Aside from distributing product evenly, your brushes will give you that polished, blended look you may have thought only the pros can accomplish.

For new models, I strongly encourage purchasing a set of good brushes of your own. Even if you work with makeup artists frequently, there will be times that you will have to do your own makeup. As a professional, it is imperative that you can create a polished look on your own when necessary. In my kit, I have mixed and matched brushes from many different lines, but if you are starting from scratch, a brush kit will probably be more economical.

The most economical but quality brush kit that I know of on the market can be found on http://www.sigmamakeup.com/. Specifically I recommend the Professional Brushes Complete Set, which contains 12 versatile brushes that can achieve almost any makeup look that will ever be asked of you. To learn more about these brushes, check out this review by TiffanyD.


Personally, these brushes are not my all time favorites. I think Lancome, MAC, and Bobbi Brown have superior brush kits, but unfortunately they are only around at holiday. But these brushes work extremely well and are a great value.

My only complaint about them is that after repeated deep cleansing, some of mine have stained, shed, or slightly lost shape. But this is not something I think the average consumer will experience. Since I am a professional MUA, my brushes take quite a beating. They must be sanitized after every use and deep cleansed daily with an antibacterial shampoo and sprayed with alcohol before left to dry overnight. An individual using them for personal use will (hopefully) treat them a bit more gently.

Despite this criticism, check out the website. I think you'll be pleased with the results you can achieve with a good set of quality brushes.

I worked for Victoria's Secret one summer in college, so I don't think I'm making assumptions when I say that women hate shopping for strapless bras. It makes sense. Women hate wearing strapless bras. So what fun is shopping for them?

Regardless, the fact is that a versatile strapless bra is a wardrobe staple that most young women can't do without. But if your strapless bra alters the way clothing lays on your body, it can seem like a wasted investment.

My biggest problem with strapless bras is that they always seem to stretch too high if they're not slipping down. And my second biggest problem is that they can distort the shape of your body--minimizing when you don't want it too or packing into the cup a pillow's worth of padding for some kind of cleavage substitute. If you too are tired of settling for sub par straplesses, I suggest checking out Calvin Klein's Perfectly Fit Petites Tailored Strapless Bra, available in black and nude for $44 at Macy's. It is quite honestly the only strapless bra I have ever owned that I don't consider a burden. It's seamless and provides light padding that shapes without adding any obvious bulk. But mostly what makes this bra so different for me is that it works perfectly on those of us with short torsos and smaller frames. Comparing it to another strapless by Calvin Klein in the store, there was absolutely no difference in band or cup size. However, you will see a difference in where the cup falls. It's cut maybe a third of an inch lower than a regular strapless. In my opinion, this makes a better fit. Since it stops on your bust--rather than above it--you won't have any puckering or gapping. And being cut lower, you can wear it with more clothing. What's not to love about that?

Healthy-looking nails

One of the seven deadly sins for models is nail neglect. (Our version of sloth? I gotta step away from the metaphors.) It's also the most common faux pas I see and a surefire way to spot an amateur.

I could leave it simple and give the advice most people give, which is to be sure to get a manicure and pedicure every week (or every two weeks if you must.) But lately I've found myself walking a few miles in the shoes of a model, and it's been more complicated than I expected.

As a makeup artist, I am constantly washing my hands and slathering hand sanitizer on them, and my nails pay the price for it. Since my hands are in people's faces constantly, I religiously manicured once a week, sporting whatever OPI summarized the trend du jour. A few weeks ago though I needed something more neutral and decided that nail maintenance comes with some tricky decisions to make.

In my case, I decided that my naked nails were too homely to look good with just a clear polish, so I did something I haven't done in about a year. I asked for a full set, and I've been mad at myself ever since.

The problem with getting acrylics is that every girl knows that she has to keep up with them or face the horror of her God-given nails when they come out from hibernation. To top it off they're plain bad for you.

I wish I could embed this clip I'd like you all to check out, but it's not available on YouTube. I'd like you all to check out segment from Dr. Oz on acrylic nails. (Pay attention to the other topic discussed because it's relevant to our discussion of hand and feet aesthetics. Follow this link to view the video:
http://www.doctoroz.com/videos/treating-hammer-toes-and-dangers-acrylic-nails

I did some thinking, and I realized that this expectation for models kind of sucks. We're not all born with great nails, and while we can take care of our health to help them out, models don't live in a bubble just because they're models. And life can take a toll on your fingers and toes.

Below you'll find a video that offers a compromise, and I never thought this would be something I'd advise women to do. But if your nails are looking a little gnarly and you don't want to make them worse with acrylics, there is another option available. It's also a great idea if you're hating the way your nails look now that you've removed your acrylics.



I have been seeing these a lot lately and seriously couldn't tell they were press-ons. Since I hadn't worn press-ons since I was--literally--ten years old, it never would've occurred to me to try them. The girls I've seen wearing these bad boys looked like they'd spent some cash getting their nails professionally done. Impressive.

Even if you don't care about whether or not your nails are healthy, this is undeniably budget-friendly. Beauty upkeep can get really expensive. Where I live, a full-set at a licensed, sanitary, reputable salon runs $45. A fill-in costs $35, which you'll probably need every two weeks. To put this in perspective, imagine that you got a full-set put on New Year's Day and kept up with this maintenance for a year. That's $850 out of your yearly paycheck on nails--pedicures not included. And that's assuming you never break them or need a new set during that time.

We'll discuss pedicures soon, but hopefully this has helped some of you who think beautiful nails are out of arms reach. They're right at your fingertips, and that's not just a cheesy pun.

Contouring/Highlighting for Beginners

Even if you have your pictures taken by a professional, they may not look like the ones you see in magazines if you don't adjust your makeup for the camera. (If you haven't already read my posts about photo-friendly foundations, be sure to check those out.) I know many models or other women who know how to apply their makeup so it looks stunning day-to-day but only look so-so in photos. Most of the time this is because they haven't defined their featured by contouring and highlighting the planes of the face.

I myself was nervous to sculpt the face when I first started out. I didn't want to look--or make my clients look--80s or drag queenish. Even once I started trying it, I contoured and highlighted with caution--thinking it was only needed for those who wanted to slim the face. I have since had a change of heart. While I don't use these techniques in my own morning routine and consider them optional for shoots taken in natural light, I truly believe that putting on makeup at all is a waste of time if you neglect these steps in your makeup application.

My favorite how-to book on this subject is Robert Jones's Makeup Makeovers, which is an excellent manual for any woman looking to better understand how she can enhance her personal appearance with makeup. (The messiah of transforming women's faces, Kevyn Aucoin, has also written some excellent books that explain facial sculpting, but his amazing artistry skills are often more interesting than applicable for the average woman.) In this book, you will not only learn the basics of sculpting the face, you will also learn how to apply them to your own face shape (and, using these same principles, to your eyes with shadow.) I recommend this book to all my clients who want to find a good makeup manual and find it extremely helpful because it contains before and afters of ordinary women, as well as models. You can purchase a copy at http://www.amazon.com/.

While you definitely want to customize your contouring and highlighting techniques to your own unique features, let me share with you some pointers you may not find from reading Robert Jones.

• Here are the basics: The principles of highlighting and contouring are relatively simple and come from rules you probably learned in art class. If you would like to make an area come forward (highlighting), you will need to use a lighter color than the one used allover. Conversely if you would like to make an area recede (contouring), choose a darker color than both the highlight shade and the allover color. (You can also achieve this effect by using the same allover color but using different finishes that attract light differently, such as a shimmer for a highlight or a matte for a contour. While this is important to note when purchasing products, this technique is way too subtle to be used in a studio setting where the flash washes out color almost universally.)



• The general standard of beauty in our culture, which we want to emphasize in the fashion or entertainment industry, consists of the following criteria:

1. Flawless skin



2. Oval-shaped face--although certain face shapes are gaining similarly coveted status as celebrity icons become more and more diverse



3. Symmetrical features



4. Large, bright eyes



5. High cheekbones--ideally because of a slim face, not angular features



6. Full lips



7. Straight, thin nose
   


8. Defined eyebrows arched above the iris
   


9. Slight glow from a sunkissed tan or rosey flush
   

The reason these traits are worth noting is because the principles of contouring and highlighting should help you appear to have these features in photos whether you were genetically blessed with them or not. Determine for yourself whether your techniques will be accentuating the great features you were born with (that the camera can wash out) or will be corrective. The products you choose may be different depending on the effect you want to create.

Note: If your features are different from I'm not saying that your highlighting and contouring techniques have to be corrective. A picture is a two-dimensional image or a three-dimensional being. Highlighting the bridge of your nose and contouring the sides doesn't have to change the shape of your nose, but if you would like for it to look slimmer, you may want to use products that create a more dramatic change.

• Select products you can blend easily. Some people find liquids easier because they glide smoothly over the skin; some prefer powders they can buff into the skin with a brush. Just as important as how blendable a product is, you also want to avoid using any products that are too messy. If you choose a dusty loose powder with a high concentration of mica for your highlight color, for example, you may have fallout all over your contour, and your hard work hasn't paid off.



• Consider your skintone while selecting colors. If you are very light, avoid anything too intense. You'll look like a mannequin. In contrast, women with darker skins should seek out intense pigments, or a well-done contour can look like skin discoloration and a highlight can look ashy.



• Avoid anything too sparkly if you have oily skin, which will look greasy. If you have enlarged pores, follow the same advice because shimmer will highlight textured skin as well.



• Don't try to multitask by contouring and highlighting with color on the face. It will look terrible, not to mention dated. You should never use these techniques when you are wanting to brighten your complexion--especially if you're going for a rosy glow. Except for those with the most alabaster skins (who often have a hard time finding a highlight shade lighter than their complexions that don't look like chalk) avoid pink tones all together.

So enough of what not to do. I've compiled a list of the products that are user-friendly and create the beautiful results you want without costing you an arm and a leg. (Some may look expensive but last forever.) Without further ado, here are some of my favorite products for highlighting and contouring:

• Benefit Hoola: the ultimate matte bronzer

Benefit's collection of Box O' Powders pack a lot of pigment. In fact, I've never finished using a single one of them. This particular product is not only a good investment though, it is the only matte bronzer on the market--and I've tried them all--that can handle the job. A true brown with absolutely no orange, it creates the most believable shadow on most women. It's also buildable, making perfect for a variety of skintones. On women with darker skin, I still find myself turning to this product. It can blend together highlight and contour shades on skintones that have difficulty finding shades that won't look ashy or muddy. And on the very dark, I've even used it as a highlight where I was amazed that a matte powder product not only worked but didn't look fake or chalky. Another perk? The brush in the box is actually a great tool instead of another packaging afterthought.

P.S. If you fall in love with this Box O' Powder, check out 10. It contains two shades--a highlight and a contour. Why isn't this one on the list? Well, maybe it should be. I use this product a lot on both myself and clients. But I only like it on the very fair, and the pink highlight only works with certain undertones. It also has quest a bit of shimmer, which I usually can play down with a dusting of loose powder over it. And I generally try to avoid powders for highlight/contour products. A lot of them look dusty or unnatural. But you may like it. Very convenient and a great into product.

• Benefit Moon Beam: highlighter for those peaches 'n cream girls

I know, I know. I said not to use highlighters to add color to your face. I still stand by that statement! This is my one exception, and I'll tell you why. I really don't know what possessed me to buy this product because I absolutely hated High Beam, which I bought years ago at the urging of a friend who worked for Benefit.

Moon Beam and High Beam are the exact same product in different colors. High Beam is an icy pink instead of "golden pink" (which I'm pretty sure is a fancy way of saying peach.) Like I said I hated High Beam, and I tried to force myself to like it for years. It just didn't work for me. I thought the nail polish bottle packaging was stupid and couldn't figure out what I was expected to do with the flimsy brush. It was very liquidy, so I had a hard time placing it in just the right spot. And at the same time, it didn't blend very well, so I looked like I'd tried unsuccessfully to do some kind of pixie, whimsical something. (Since this experience, I've made peace with High Beam, which looks good on certain people on select occasions, so don't mind me if you love it. You're probably just one of the few women I don't hate it on.) Anyway, a lot of the reasons I hated High Beam are what makes Moon Beam so versatile. The opalescent pinky-peach color may not seem very different, but it is universally flattering on women of any undertones, since it has hints of both gold and pink. Since it isn't icy, it doesn't look harsh like High Beam, which contains a little bit of silver--a color that I've found is unflattering on almost all women when it's not jewelry or eye shadow. Though the texture is still the same, it doesn't require nearly as much effort to blend. It's close to most skintones and also blends seamlessly with almost any blush or bronzer. If you think you're too fair or too dark for this product to look natural, mix it with your liquid foundation for a foolproof perfect shade.

I recommend applying Moon Beam to the back of your hand before applying it with a foundation brush, angled blush brush, sponge, or fingertips. The brush is still stupid. I also recommend applying it after your loose powder to give the liquid something to grip on. Dusting with powder again is up to your discretion.

• Estee Lauder Spotlight: A Colorless Highlighter

If the packaging of Moon Beam annoys you or you don't want to use any color, check out this option from Estee Lauder. Like Moon Beam, you can use it alone or mixed into foundation, and it comes in a squeezable tube that will last you a long time. I'll be reviewing this soon, so stay tuned to learn more about this versatile product.

Other options include...

If the products above don't work for you, you may want to use foundation. You can use the same formula you use allover in shades one to two shades lighter for highlight and darker for contour. (I know this is quite expensive, but some people think it's worth it. If it isn't in your, maybe you can sweet talk that girl behind the counter into offering up some samples the next time you go in to replenish.) If you want to use foundations to sculpt your face, you'll probably love the convenience of a foundation stick, like Bobbi Brown's, for precise contour application. Women who can't wear it allover often love it for this purpose, and it's very easy to travel with.

Hope this was helpful! Feel free to leave me a comment or question about contouring/highlighting or makeup for photos in general. Happy picture taking!

Applying false eyelashes

Many women find eye makeup intimidating and often wonder why they can never get their smoky eye to look as good as the ones they see on the red carpet. If you haven't tried wearing false lashes before, give it a shot because it will change the look of your entire face. I put lashes on almost all of my brides, and they're basically mandatory for photo shoots. Once you see the difference lashes make in pictures, you'll wonder how you ever went without them.

If you're scared of strip lashes because you think they'll look fake, head to Sally's Beauty Supply where you'll find a larger selection of lashes to choose from. Women with larger eyes or naturally thicker lashes should lean towards a longer, more voluminous lash. (I like Ardell InvisiBands Demi Pixies.) Those with sparse lashes ought to select a strip without gaps between the lashes and instead choose ones like the Luckies, which create the illusion of a fuller allover lash line. Women with small eyes look best with a strip of shorter lashes like the Sexies. Once you find your perfect set of lashes, you can save a lot of money purchasing them in bulk from a site like http://www.madamemadeline.com where they also sell DUO Surgical Glue and heated eyelash curlers at a discount.

Another piece of advice I'd like to share is to stay away from dark toned glue. A lot of magazines recommend the dark glue because they say the white glue never really dries clear like it's supposed to. While they have a point, you can draw over this with a gel liner in any dark shade of your choosing. If you use the darker glue, which dries a gross looking gray color, it's harder to cover up. Plus it stands out against the black, drawing attention to the seam of the lashes. That's not a good look.

Instead of writing out step-by-step instructions, I'm posting a video that I think clearly explains how to apply false lashes, and since you can watch someone doing it, I think you'll have more confidence to try it out on your own.

Stiletto 101

I have three pairs of heels sitting in my closet that I need to take to the cobbler, and I've purchased all of them within the past four months. I'm brutal on shoes. Even though I'm 5'10" and don't really need the extra height, I've never found a pair of flat that could rival the elegance of an open-toed stilettos, so I continue to wear them and torture my feet and my back until they come close to crippling me. For all you ladies out there with throbbing feet of your own, check out this video. Even if you've been wearing heels since middle school like I have, this may save you a lot of pain.

The Model's First Aid Kit

If nowhere else, Murphy's Law can be applied to the fashion industry--photo shoots in particular. Some attribute this to epidemic levels of flakiness in the business, but I find comments like these obnoxious. Most people I know work very hard in a hard business. A hard business where you learn as you go. A hard business where words of wisdom are viewed as condescending.

Enough with the abstract talk. Let's get to something useful. Below you will find a list of what I call the Model's First Aid Kit. Not to be confused with a packing list or incomplete compilation of essentials, these are the things that I've seen models--experienced and inexperienced--curse themselves for overlooking. These items can prevent bad days, embarrassing moments, and even physical pain. Too often I have watched models become too dependent on the photographer, agent, and creative team that does so much for them, they overlook the fundamentals of comfortable survival during unpredictable circumstances.

So in addition to showing up on time, well-groomed, and prepared for the day's business, remember to bring the following in case of emergency:

• Nonmedicated eye drops. Not only will these come in handy during early morning shoots where you look less than awake, they can be a real lifesaver if something gets in your eye. Think about it. This really could happen. You are working with a makeup artist, who will probably be working closer to this area than your eye doctor usually is. Even if she is the most experienced, she can't be held responsible for what could go wrong if you flinch. Nor can you prevent an injury if her hand shakes. So even if you don't worry about redness, bring along some simple saline drops because accidents happen and for the sake of your vanity and your well being, you'll want these around. (That being said, you'll probably just use them to deal with hay fever during outdoor shoots, but you'll thank me if those fake lashes ever do go awry.) On a similar note, if you wear contact lenses, bring along some solution. More likely than accidental injury, a heavy handed MUA can easily push your lens out of focus. Now that I've seen dozens of times.


• Cortisone cream. I will never go to a shoot without this product, but many MUAs don't carry it around with them. I've used it on inflamed blemishes, skin irritations, bug bites, and even as a moisturizer for red, sensitive skin that couldn't tolerate my other products. But it's more than versatile. It can save a photo shoot if a model discovers a cosmetics allergy the hard way. So keep some with you and remember to speak up if anything going on your face burns or stings. That's not normal.


• Makeup Remover Wipes. Though you shouldn't show up to a shoot with makeup on, you may have to if coming from another job, and there's no time to hit the sink. Or you may use it wipe off some ghastly product that's irritating your face and needs instant cortisone. At the very least, you should use it to clean your face before leaving. No matter how cool you look, leaving with your makeup on is a bad habit because anything without the label non-comedogenic can wreck havoc on your complexion.


• Floss. Most models remember to bring mints, but they won't pry spinach out of your teeth. I think that sums it up.


• Bandaids. Handy if jabbed with a pin by the wardrobe stylist or if you trip during an outdoor shoot, but that's not the main reason to keep them around. Your feet will beg for them when you find out you'll be in those stilettos for another thirty minutes.


• Rose salve. It's just versatile. No matter how impeccable your grooming, you should have a product on hand for the occasional rough patch. This universal product can be used on elbows, knees, cuticles, lips, and more. Plus, since it's a balm and not a lot, it won't run, making it the perfect spot treatment when you're modelling clothes that must be returned spot free. (The pictured product is available at Bath & Body Works.)
• Safety pins. If wardrobe doesn't have enough, you may need to rely on yourself to keep you...well...covered. Enough said.
• Advil. If your back or feet don't hurt, someone's probably giving you a headache.
• Tweezers. You never know when you'll need them.

Face your next emergency prepared, and you'll never risk looking unprofessional. Hope this helps those of you just starting out, and good luck to all of you!

Top Photo Friendly Foundations

As promised, here are my top three photo-friendly foundations--the ones I recommend again and again to all my clients, not just the models and brides. Each of these foundations can fit into your daily routine, as they look beautiful in all lights and for all occasions. Though I love and use each of these products, I have ranked them according to their versatility. Starting with number one, which performs the best universally on my clients, and counting back to number three, which I keep in my kit for more select circumstances, I hope that anyone posing for the camera will find their ideal photo-friendly foundation:

1. MAC Studio Sculpt Foundation--available for $29.50 at Macy's or http://www.maccosmetics.com/

For years, I saw MAC bases as a necessary evil that I'd only use under exigent circumstances. Needless to say, I was shocked when I fell in love with this foundation.

With a unique gel-based formula, this oil-free foundation doesn't feel like the typical liquids or creams on the market and thus functions like a best of both worlds. It blends seamlessly onto the skin blending to an almost indescribably perfect finish. (Satin is as close as I can get, but that really doesn't do it justice.) On camera and in real life, it appears both natural and somehow better than natural. Instantly it makes skin look, well, healthy and gives you that coveted peaches and cream complexion.

Okay, I sound a bit dramatic, but this foundation really does work wonders. And maybe part of the reason I love it is because it's created flawless skin when wonders were what I needed. Many of my clients suffer from acne, eczema, or other skin conditions. Their skin is dehydrated, yet they constantly break out. They have large pores, but their skin is flaky. They have sunburns. They need coverage. They need comfort. Most foundations can't provide that.

Providing medium to full coverage, this foundation addresses the needs of most women with less than perfect skin. It contains shea butter, which hydrates the skin and makes the formula creamy enough to use over blemishes and other imperfections without looking cakey. It can be used alone or with a concealer for extra coverage. And I've literally seen women begin to cry when they looked at their skin in the mirror because they'd never felt so beautiful. That's worth a little drama to me.

And it has an added bonus. Priced under thirty bucks, it's the most economical pick on our list.

2. Laura Mercier Oil-Free and/or Moisturizing Foundation available for $42.00 at Sephora or http://www.lauramercier.com/

As someone with combination skin, I am tired of having to choose between looking haggard for the sake of an oily T-zone or wiping away grease so my cheeks won't feel tight. Sure, they make foundations with all kinds of smart technology, but unfortunately they usually don't look so hot in photos or come in shades too dark, too yellow, or too pink for my ivory complexion. So forgive me for cheating, but I just couldn't pick one formula of this Laura Mercier liquid foundation for the number two slot. Both come in shades I have never seen in another line. Both provide blendable coverage. And both formulas make your skin look like skin. Here you won't have to choose between too matte or too dewy. Just pick a formula based on what your skin needs to look flawless all day. Sound too good to be true? All right. These foundations aren't perfect. A God send for the fairest of us, Laura Mercier might want to expand her collection... You know, so people outside the Caucasian race can enjoy her products too. Just a thought.

3. Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick available for $40.00 at Bloomingdale's or http://www.bobbibrown.com/

If Laura Mercier doesn't offer a shade for you, I guarantee Bobbi Brown will. Her exquisite collection of yellow-based shades work on all skin tones and women from every background. (They also help control redness in women with rosacea or, well, just pale skin.) This conveniently packaged cream foundation is extremely user-friendly: portable, great for touch-ups. It looks amazing with the littlest effort; just streak it across your cheek and rub it in with your fingertips. I know photographers who request that I use this foundation whenever I shoot with them because this matte finish is never cakey and makes PhotoShop practically unnecessary. Unfortunately, it's not for everyone. Those with oily skin or acne should be advised that one of Bobbi's liquid foundations would make a better option. (Don't worry. It comes in the same great colors.)


Hopefully one of these foundations will become your product of choice next time you're in the limelight, but please don't think these are the only photo-friendly products out there. In addition to these three products, check out MakeUp ForEver HD Invisible Cover (exclusively at Sephora for $40.00), which comes in an amazing number of shades in a smooth oil-free liquid with medium-to-full coverage. Test drive Lancome Teint Idole or Estee Lauder Double Wear Light the next time you see a gift with purchase advertised at your local department store. They both offer longwearing results that are awesome for outdoor shoots and weddings where touch ups just aren't doable. There are dozens of great products on the market, so remember to shop wisely the next time you need your bases covered.

Intro to Photo-Friendly Foundations

Every woman wants flawless skin, especially in front of the camera. The brides and models I work with constantly ask for my opinion on the perfect foundation on the market. They know selecting the proper shade is critical but often don't realize that the formula they choose is actually even more important than the shade they choose. If you aren't familiar with photo-friendly foundations, I'll briefly explain what happens to foundations that aren't photo-friendly when photographed, then outline how to avoid purchasing them.

The typical foundation contains a high percentage of titanium dioxide, which functions as both a white pigment and sunscreen in many cosmetic products. If a foundation contains too much of this ingredient (or does not contain another ingredient that counteracts the mineral's "whiteness"), a camera's flash will reflect off the face and create hot spots--basically white or bright splotches. These foundations can even make women with very dark complexions turn purple, or make women of any skin tone look as though they have a white beard or mask. It's not a good look. And unfortunately you won't know if this will happen to you until you're in front of the camera.

Additionally women being photographed should avoid any foundations with labels that say luminous, light-reflecting, or dewy. Though these products look flawless on women with dry or aging skin in real life, they too can create hot spots where the flash picks up mica or similar light-reflecting ingredient. Furthermore, that flattering glow can look greasy or sweaty in pictures. Not cute.

When shopping for a photo-friendly foundation, I suggest heading to a large department store like Nordstrom or specialty boutique like Sephora where a sales assistant can guide you to the correct foundation, and you can try out plenty of options before you buy. A well-trained associate should know what's best for models, brides, etc. Occasionally you'll run across a rep who'll look at you like you've just told her you're a phoenix when you drop the term photo-friendly; in this instance, move on. Either her line does not cater to this demographic, or she lacks the expertise needed here. As a general rule, start with makeup artistry lines such as MAC or Laura Mercier, for example. These brands developed out of necessity in the fashion and beauty industry, and their choice in products aptly reflects this.

Also note that certain formulas tend to work better than others. I steer towards semi-matte, oil-free liquids with little or no SPF, which I apply over a primer and set with loose powder. (They glide smoothly over rough areas and blend seamlessly with all types of concealer.) While there are plenty of other great formulas available, I caution against using mineral makeup, which has the highest concentration of titanium dioxide. In addition, mineral makeups have the added dosadvantage it shares with most powder foundations: it collects in cakey patches on imperfections and fades unevenly throughout the day.

My next post will include a list of my favorite photo-friendly foundations with commentary on my selections. In the meantime, say cheese!

Determining your skin type

A lot of magazines and skincare books will tell you that in order to determine your skin type you should wash your face with a nonmoisturizing soap and wait some amount of time...basically to see what happens. I've never heard anybody talk about doing this. Really it seems kind of silly. Maybe even ineffective. Dermatologists, aestheticians, and sales reps unanimously agree that you should never wash your face with bar soap. I tried this little experiment on myself, and my skin was tight and red for over a week. (True, this does show that my skin is sensitive, but I would have preferred something less torturous.)

I've developed my own technique for determining skin type for my clients that are in their teens, twenties, and thirties. (Women who tend to just be unhappy with their skin but are not usually dealing with specific issues related to aging or neglected skin.) In this age range, most women have normal/combination skin. This means that they will need to wash their faces twice daily with a gentle cleanser and moisturize with an oil free moisturizer.

Unless you are suffering from a skin condition like eczema or acne, I challenge you to try this routine for a week. I recommend using Purpose liquid cleanser (available at most drugstores) and Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Gel. Moisturize your lip and eye areas with appropriate products if needed. If possible, try to avoid wearing makeup during this time. If you do wear makeup, lean towards oil free products that are not designed to be long wearing and remove them at night with a product like Neutrogena Makeup Remover Wipes. Hold onto your receipts, but you probably won't need them.

I am not a dermatologist, but after working with a lot of women as a makeup artist, I have found that this bare bones routine works for most women--even those with sensitive skin. This routine only requires moderate tweaking if you find you have special needs, but we all need to occasionally step back and simplify our lives.

Even if you choose not to take this challenge, I would like to remind all of you that skincare doesn't have to be complicated. For years, I spent hundreds of dollars on creams, serums, and little value kits that did nothing more than make me wonder why I was so genetically cursed with bad skin. Looking back, I realize that I was suffocating my young face with products that were too harsh or too potent. I fell asleep so many nights with a full face of makeup because my routine was too time-consuming and sometimes downright painful. Don't make the same mistakes I did. Remember that your skin deserves to be treated like a functioning organ in your body. Focus on its health by protecting it with sunscreen and exfoliating it to stimulate cell turnover. And take care of yourself in the meantime. You'll like what you see in the mirror.